When I tested this, I found that I needed to insert large washers in different locations under the flange to ensure that it was perpendicular.Ĥ. After securing the flange, insert the metal pipe in the ball bearing and check if the pipe is perpendicular to the base. Before securing the flange, you need to insert the slip ring in the 1/2" hole and secure it with wood screws so that the flange and the free-spinning node is facing upwards.ģ. I bored a 1/2" hole in the center of the circle for the slip ring, and drilled 4 other holes for the screws that will secure the flange bearing to the base. Make sure you mark the center of your square before cutting it into a circle.Ģ. I used a jigsaw (before I bought a woodworking router for better cuts) to cut the MDF board into a rough circle and sanded the edges. Any 1/2" thick wood could be used for the base (not necessarily MDF). I used a 1/2" piece of MDF wood to act as a strong, heavy base for the arm mechanism. GPIO pin breakout module with 40-pin ribbon cableġ.31" (or any other dimension) circular tempered glass.1/2" and 1/4" pieces of plywood, birchwood, etc.Any other wood/machine screw necessary for securing components.Large washers or shims (for balancing the flange).Drop in T-nuts (I would suggest definitely getting some M5 T-nuts and any other sizes that you want).4x Larger screws and nuts for securing the flange bearing to the base (I found these at my local hardware store).Any other male/female wires necessary for wiring with the Raspberry Piįor the linear slide mechanism, I found the parts separately on OpenBuilds, but I would suggest using the V-Slot linear actuator kit, since it has all of the parts necessary as well as assembly instructions.DC power jacks (at least 2x male and 2x female connectors). Raspberry Pi (any version with the 40 pin GPIO).
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